- Old Srinagar, or Downtown, is the historic heart of the city along the Jhelum.
- Allow half a day for the main shrines, bridges and a craft workshop.
- Dress modestly, remove shoes at shrines and ask before photographing people.
- Go in the morning and avoid Friday midday prayers at the big mosques.
Most visitors see Srinagar from a Shikara on Dal Lake. Few walk into the old city, where the real history of Kashmir is written in wooden shrines, stone mosques, ancient bridges and narrow bazaars.
Old Srinagar, often called Downtown, grew up along the banks of the Jhelum River over many centuries. It's busy, crowded and full of life, and it's one of the most rewarding half-days you can spend in Kashmir.
This guide gives you a simple route, what to see at each stop and the etiquette that helps you feel welcome.
What is Old Srinagar?
The historic city centre, built along the Jhelum River and its old wooden bridges.
For centuries this was the commercial and spiritual heart of Kashmir. Merchants, craftsmen and scholars lived in tall timber houses with carved windows, and the river was the main highway. Today, many of those houses still stand, alongside shrines and mosques that are among the most important buildings in the valley.
How long does an Old Srinagar walk take?
About half a day, or a full day if you add a craft workshop and a long lunch.
Start early in the morning. The light is better, the lanes are cooler and the bakeries are busy with fresh bread.
What's the best route through Old Srinagar?
Start at Khanqah-e-Moula, then walk to Pathar Masjid, Jamia Masjid and Hari Parbat.
- Khanqah-e-Moula on the banks of the Jhelum
- Pathar Masjid across the river
- The old bridges and riverside houses
- Jamia Masjid in Nowhatta
- Hari Parbat and its shrines
- A papier-mâché, copper or walnut-wood workshop
Your driver can drop you near the first stop and meet you at the end, so you don't have to walk back.
Khanqah-e-Moula: the wooden shrine on the river
A beautiful wooden shrine dedicated to the Sufi saint Mir Syed Ali Hamadani, also known as Shah-e-Hamadan.
Built on the banks of the Jhelum, the shrine is famous for its wooden architecture and its richly painted interior, decorated with papier-mâché and carved wood. It's one of the most important places of worship in Kashmir and a fine example of traditional Kashmiri building.
Visitors should dress modestly and remove their shoes. Access to some parts of the interior may be restricted, especially for women; follow the guidance of the caretakers.
Pathar Masjid: the stone mosque
A stone mosque built in the 17th century and associated with Empress Nur Jahan.
Unlike most old buildings in Srinagar, which are made of wood and brick, Pathar Masjid is built from grey stone, with a row of arches along its front. It sits across the river from Khanqah-e-Moula, and the contrast between the two is striking.
What are the old bridges of Srinagar?
A series of historic crossings over the Jhelum, each with its own neighbourhood.
The old city grew up around these bridges, known locally as kadals. Walking along the river, you'll see old wooden houses leaning over the water, shikaras tied up below and the busy markets that cluster at each crossing. Zaina Kadal is one of the best known, named after the 15th-century ruler Zain-ul-Abidin.
Look out for the Budshah Tomb near Zaina Kadal, a brick tomb with a distinctive domed design linked to the family of Zain-ul-Abidin.
Jamia Masjid: the great mosque
The largest and most important mosque in Kashmir, built around a central courtyard.
Jamia Masjid in Nowhatta was first built in the late 14th century and rebuilt several times after fires. Its most famous feature is the forest of tall wooden columns, each made from a single deodar tree trunk, supporting the roof around the courtyard. The garden in the centre is calm and green.
Avoid the Friday midday prayers, when the mosque is very busy with worshippers. At other times, visitors are usually welcome if they dress modestly and behave respectfully.
Hari Parbat: a hill of many faiths
A hill crowned by a fort, with a Muslim shrine, a Hindu temple and a Sikh gurdwara on its slopes.
The fort on top dates mainly from the 18th century, and the long outer wall was built in the time of the Mughal emperor Akbar. On the slopes you'll find the shrine of Makhdoom Sahib, the Sharika Devi temple and Gurdwara Chatti Patshahi. It's a striking reminder of how many traditions share this city.
The views over Srinagar, Dal Lake and the mountains are excellent, especially in the late afternoon.
Where can you see craftsmen at work?
In small workshops tucked into the old city's lanes.
Old Srinagar has long been the home of Kashmir's crafts: papier-mâché painters, copper engravers, walnut-wood carvers and shawl embroiderers. Watching an artisan at work is the best way to understand why genuine handmade pieces cost what they do.
Ask your guide or driver to arrange a visit to a working studio rather than a showroom. Read our Kashmiri handicrafts buying guide before you shop.
What should you eat in Old Srinagar?
Fresh bread from a traditional bakery, noon chai and, in winter, harissa.
Kashmiri bakeries, called kandurs, bake bread in clay ovens before dawn. Try girda (a round flatbread), lavasa (a thin bread) and the sweet, crumbly bakarkhani. Noon chai, the pink salty tea, is the classic match.
In winter, many shops in the old city sell harissa, a slow-cooked mutton dish eaten for breakfast. Ask your driver to take you to a place locals like. Our Kashmiri food guide has more to try.
What etiquette should you follow?
Dress modestly, be quiet in shrines and always ask before photographing people.
- Cover shoulders and knees; women may want to carry a scarf for shrines
- Remove shoes before entering shrines and mosques
- Don't photograph people praying, and ask before photographing anyone
- Avoid visiting the big mosques during Friday prayers
- Lanes are narrow and busy; keep to the side and watch for motorbikes
- Carry small change for shrine donations and snacks
Is it safe to walk in Old Srinagar?
Yes, for normal daytime sightseeing.
The old city is busy and full of everyday life. Walk during the day, keep an eye on your bag in crowded lanes, and follow your guide or driver's advice on the day. If there are any local closures, our team will let you know and adjust your plan.
When is the best time to visit?
Morning, any season except the coldest snowy days.
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable. Summer mornings are pleasant before the heat builds. Winter is cold but atmospheric, with smoke rising from bakery chimneys and people wrapped in pherans.
How do you fit Old Srinagar into a Kashmir trip?
Make it your first morning in Srinagar, or your last day before you fly home.
It works especially well on arrival day if your flight lands early. Our Srinagar weekend package and Jammu and Srinagar rail tour both include an old city day, and we can add it to any other trip.
Can you explore Old Srinagar by Shikara?
Yes. A Shikara ride through the old waterways shows you a side of the city most visitors miss.
Beyond the open water of Dal Lake, narrow channels wind past old wooden houses, floating gardens and small neighbourhood markets. A longer Shikara ride from Dal towards the old city takes you under low bridges and past homes where life still happens on the water. Ask your houseboat host or our team to arrange a longer ride, ideally in the early morning.
Should you visit Hazratbal too?
Yes, if you have time. It's not in the old city, but it's one of Srinagar's most important shrines.
Hazratbal sits on the north-western shore of Dal Lake, with a white marble dome reflected in the water. It's an important place of pilgrimage for Muslims in Kashmir. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times if they dress modestly and behave respectfully. The lakeside setting is especially beautiful in the late afternoon.
What does a half-day heritage walk look like?
Here's a sample morning, starting early.
- 7:30 AM: tea and fresh bread at a traditional bakery
- 8:00 AM: Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum
- 8:45 AM: Pathar Masjid, just across the river
- 9:15 AM: walk along the riverside past the old bridges and the Budshah Tomb
- 10:00 AM: Jamia Masjid in Nowhatta
- 11:00 AM: a papier-mâché or copper workshop
- 12:00 PM: Hari Parbat and the views over the city
- 1:00 PM: lunch, then back to your hotel or houseboat
How do you photograph the old city?
Respectfully, and mostly in the early morning.
The old city is full of beautiful details: carved windows, old doors, river reflections and the warm glow of bakery ovens. Photograph buildings and streets freely, but ask before photographing people, and never photograph inside shrines without permission. The softest light is in the first hours after sunrise.
Old Srinagar: quick FAQs
Do we need a guide?
It helps. A local guide knows the lanes, the opening times and the stories behind each building. Our drivers can recommend one.
Is the old city wheelchair friendly?
Not very. Lanes are narrow and uneven, with steps. Your driver can take you close to the main sites, and the riverside views can be enjoyed from the car.
Are the shrines open to non-Muslim visitors?
Most are open to respectful visitors outside prayer times, but some areas may be restricted. Follow the guidance of the caretakers.
What's the best day for a heritage walk?
Any weekday morning. Avoid Friday midday, when the big mosques are busy with prayers.
A short history of Old Srinagar
The city grew along the Jhelum over many centuries, under Hindu, Sultanate, Mughal, Afghan, Sikh and Dogra rule.
The river was Srinagar's main highway for most of its history, and the old city grew up along its banks. Each period of rule left its mark: shrines and mosques from the Sultanate era, gardens and stone buildings from the Mughals, the fort on Hari Parbat from the Afghan period and later buildings from the Sikh and Dogra years. Walking through the old city, you can see layers of this history side by side.
Ready to explore the old city?
Old Srinagar shows you the Kashmir behind the postcards: centuries of faith, craft and trade, still alive in its lanes. Give it a morning, walk slowly and say yes to the cup of tea you're offered along the way.
See our Srinagar tour packages or ask us to add a heritage walk to your trip.
Have a question about planning your trip? Message us on WhatsApp or contact our Kashmir team for a free itinerary.
